Charging cables
Charging cables are Mode 3 leads to IEC 61851-1 that connect an electric vehicle to a socketed AC charge point and carry both the power and the control pilot signal. Choose by connector pair (Type 2 to Type 2 for European vehicles, Type 2 to Type 1 for older Japanese, French and American models), by current rating (16 or 32 A, single or three phase, so 3.7 to 22 kW), by length and by straight or coiled form. They pair with a wallbox or a public charging station; to charge from a socket use a portable EV charger. Guide
When do you need your charging cable to charge your electric car?
You need a charging cable if you charge your electric car from a socket or use a setting from an AC station. To charge from a socket, use a mobile charger, which is part of the essential equipment of your electric car. The AC station (AC station) uses Type 1 and 2 cables for recharging. DC charging stations for electric vehicles that use direct current are equipped with an already built-in cable. These stations have different inputs (CCS, CHAdeMO and Type 2) and thus allow charging of all types of electric vehicles.
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Charging cables: connectors, current rating and what the cable actually decides
A charging cable for AC charging is a Mode 3 assembly defined by IEC 61851-1: a multi-core cable with a vehicle connector on one end and a plug for the charge point on the other. It carries the line conductors, PE, and two signal cores, CP (control pilot) and PP (proximity pilot). The cable itself contains no protection electronics. It is a passive assembly whose declared capacity is communicated to the charge point by a coding resistor, and the charging power is set by whichever of the three parts in the chain is weakest.
Three properties separate one lead from another: the connector pair (Type 2 to Type 2, or Type 2 to Type 1), the current rating and phase count (16 or 32 A, single or three phase), and the length and construction. Type 2 to IEC 62196-2, also called Mennekes, is the European standard on both the vehicle side and the charge point side. Type 1 to SAE J1772 is single phase only and appears on older Japanese, French and American models, so those cars need a Type 2 to Type 1 lead when they plug into a European socketed post.
FROM THE FIELD
"The complaint I hear most often is that a new 22 kW cable did not make charging any faster. It never will. The session runs at the lowest of three limits: the on-board charger, the charge point and the cable, and on most family cars the on-board charger is the limit at 11 kW. Buy the heavier cable for headroom on public posts, not because you expect a shorter charge at home."
Ladislav Proc · EV charging specialist, ONSA Plus
How to choose a charging cable
Start from the car, not from the cable. The vehicle inlet decides the connector, the on-board charger decides the useful current, and the charge points you actually use decide the length and the form of the lead.
Work through it in this order: connector pair, then current rating and phase count against the on-board charger, then length against where the inlet sits and where you park, and finally the practical details, meaning cross-section and weight, sheath material and storage.
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Type 2 to Type 2 or Type 2 to Type 1
The charge point end is almost always Type 2 in Europe, so the vehicle inlet decides the rest. Look at the car, not at the brochure: the inlet is a fixed piece of hardware and no adapter should be used to bridge the two systems.
- Type 2 to Type 2: the European standard to IEC 62196-2. Seven pins, up to three phases, and a locking pin that the charge point or the car drives so the connector cannot be pulled out live.
- Type 2 to Type 1: for vehicles with a J1772 inlet. Type 1 is single phase only and tops out around 7.4 kW at 32 A. It has a mechanical latch with a thumb release instead of a motorised lock, so the vehicle end usually cannot be locked to the car.
- No adapters: Type 2 to Schuko adapters and similar improvisations bypass the control pilot logic and the protection built into the installation. A Mode 3 cable must connect a charge point to a vehicle, nothing else.
16 A or 32 A, single phase or three phase
Current rating and phase count together set the theoretical ceiling of the lead at 230 V per phase. The cable only has to be as strong as the weaker of the car and the charge point, because it can never raise either one.
- Single phase 16 A: about 3.7 kW. Light and cheap, adequate for plug-in hybrids and for slow overnight charging.
- Single phase 32 A: about 7.4 kW. The practical maximum for Type 1 cars and for single phase supplies.
- Three phase 16 A: about 11 kW. The rating that suits the largest share of European EVs, because 11 kW is the most common on-board charger size.
- Three phase 32 A: about 22 kW. Worth it only if the car has a 22 kW on-board charger, or if you want a lead that will never be the bottleneck on a public post.
Proximity pilot coding and why the cable cannot lie
Inside the plug that goes into the charge point sits a resistor between the PP and PE contacts. Its value declares the current capacity of the assembly, and the charge point reads it before it closes the contactor. Roughly 1500 Ω means 13 A, 680 Ω means 20 A, 220 Ω means 32 A and 100 Ω means 63 A. The CP line then carries a PWM signal whose duty cycle tells the car the maximum current the installation allows. The session settles at the lowest of the three values, so a 16 A cable on a 22 kW wallbox caps the whole session at 11 kW.
Tip from practice
If charging suddenly runs at half the expected power, check which cable was used before you suspect the station. A spare 16 A lead left in the boot after a trip is the usual explanation, and the PP resistor in it will hold the whole session down no matter what the car and the charge point can do.
Length and where the inlet sits
Five metres is the common default, seven and ten metre leads exist for awkward parking. Longer is not automatically better: every extra metre adds weight, adds voltage drop and adds cable to coil up in the rain. Measure the real distance from the charge point to the vehicle inlet in the position you actually park, and remember that the inlet may be at the front, in a front wing or at the rear, which can turn a comfortable reach into a tight one when the car is turned round.
- Home garage with a fixed wallbox: 5 m is usually enough and stores easily.
- Shared or public posts: 7 to 10 m covers bays where the post sits behind the neighbouring car.
- Voltage drop: a long lead with a small cross-section warms up and wastes energy, which is exactly why length and cross-section have to be chosen together.
Straight or coiled, cross-section and weight
A straight cable is lighter for the same rating, handles cold better and lies flat. A coiled cable stores in less space and keeps most of its length off wet ground, but it is heavier, its usable reach is shorter than its stated length, and the coil pulls back on the connector. Coils also dissipate heat poorly when bundled, which is why coiled leads are more often found at 16 A than at 32 A three phase.
Cross-section follows current. A 16 A three phase lead typically uses 2.5 mm² conductors, while 32 A three phase needs about 6 mm², and that difference is felt every day: a five metre 22 kW cable is a noticeably heavier and stiffer object than an 11 kW one. Buy the rating you will use, not the largest number available.
Sheath, temperature and UV
A charging lead lives outdoors. It is dragged over kerbs, driven over occasionally, left in the sun and flexed at minus temperatures. Look for a TPU or rubber sheath rather than plain PVC, a stated flexibility range down to about −30 °C, UV stability and a halogen free construction. Mated connectors are typically rated IP44 or better, but that rating applies when they are plugged in, not when a wet connector is lying on the ground.
Storage and connector care
- Never drag the connector: pull the lead, carry the connector. Scored pins and a cracked housing start here.
- Cap it or bag it: keep a dust cap on the vehicle connector and store the lead in a bag or on a hook, off the garage floor.
- Respect the bend radius: coil loosely in wide loops. Tight coils around a sharp edge break conductors over time.
- Inspect the contacts: browning, pitting or melted plastic around a pin means overheating. Retire the lead, do not keep using it.
- No extension leads: a Mode 3 cable is not to be extended, doubled up or joined.
Mode 3 cable or Mode 2 portable charger
These are different devices and they are not interchangeable. A Mode 3 cable is a passive lead between a charge point and a car. A Mode 2 portable EV charger plugs into a domestic or industrial socket and carries an in-cable control and protection device that generates the control pilot signal and provides residual current protection, which is why it is heavier, slower and has a box in the middle.
Quick cable comparison
| Property | What to compare | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Connector pair | Type 2 to Type 2, Type 2 to Type 1 | Whether it fits the car at all, and the phase count available |
| Current rating | 16 A or 32 A, coded by the PP resistor | Ceiling of the session, together with car and charge point |
| Phases | Single phase 3.7 to 7.4 kW, three phase 11 to 22 kW | Charging time, and whether the on-board charger is fully used |
| Length and form | 5, 7 or 10 m, straight or coiled | Reach at the parking bay, weight, storage, handling |
| Construction | Cross-section, sheath material, temperature and UV rating | Weight, flexibility in the cold, service life outdoors |
Swipe the table to the left
Frequently asked questions about charging cables
Do I need my own charging cable?
Yes, if you use AC charge points with a socket rather than a tethered lead. Most public posts and many wallboxes have a Type 2 socket and expect you to bring the cable. DC rapid chargers have their own fixed cable, so nothing is needed there.
Will a 22 kW cable charge my car faster?
Only if the car and the charge point can both use 22 kW. The session runs at the lowest of the on-board charger, the charge point and the cable. With an 11 kW on-board charger, a 22 kW cable changes nothing except weight and price.
What is the difference between Type 1 and Type 2?
Type 2 to IEC 62196-2 is the European standard, supports one or three phases up to 22 kW AC and locks electrically. Type 1 to SAE J1772 is single phase only, tops out near 7.4 kW and uses a mechanical latch. The car inlet decides which you need.
Is 16 A or 32 A the right rating for me?
Match the weaker of your car and your charge point. Three phase 16 A gives 11 kW and suits the majority of European EVs, since 11 kW is the most common on-board charger. Choose 32 A only for a 22 kW on-board charger or for future headroom.
What does the proximity pilot resistor do?
It declares the cable's current capacity to the charge point. A resistor between the PP and PE contacts of the plug is read before charging starts: roughly 1500 Ω for 13 A, 680 Ω for 20 A, 220 Ω for 32 A. The station then never exceeds that value.
What cable length should I buy?
Five metres suits a home garage with a fixed wallbox. Choose seven or ten metres if you use shared or public bays where the post may sit behind another car. Measure from the charge point to the vehicle inlet in the position you actually park.
Straight or coiled cable, which is better?
Straight is better for daily use: lighter for the same rating, more flexible in cold weather and easier to lay flat. Coiled saves storage space and keeps the lead off wet ground, but it is heavier, its usable reach is shorter and the coil pulls on the connector.
Can I use a Mode 3 cable in a normal socket?
No. A Mode 3 cable has no control electronics and only connects a charge point to a vehicle. To charge from a domestic or industrial socket you need a Mode 2 portable EV charger, which contains an in-cable control and protection device.
Can I use an extension lead or an adapter?
No. Extending, joining or adapting a charging cable defeats the proximity and control pilot logic and the protection designed into the installation. Buy the correct length and the correct connector pair instead, and replace a lead that no longer reaches.
How do I store a charging cable and how long does it last?
Coil it loosely, keep a dust cap on the vehicle connector and hang it off the floor rather than leaving it in a puddle or the boot. A TPU or rubber sheath with UV stability and flexibility to about −30 °C lasts for years. Retire any lead with pitted or discoloured pins.
The charging power reached always follows the weakest link between vehicle, cable and charge point.
About ONSA Plus
Why drivers and installers across Europe buy from us
ONSA Plus is a European B2B distributor of photovoltaics, battery storage, heat pumps and EV charging stations. In our own EU warehouses we keep over 1,500 products from 25+ brands, including Huawei, Solis, SolaX and Dyness.
We are not just a trading company. We design and service energy systems ourselves, so we answer questions on connector types, current ratings and cable selection from engineering practice, not from a catalogue. You handle a warranty claim directly with us and you buy per job.