Pitched roofs
Pitched roofs mounting systems fix photovoltaic modules to a sloping roof and carry their weight, plus wind uplift and snow load, through the covering into the rafters underneath. Choose by what the roof is actually covered with: shingle and bitumen roofs, trapezoidal sheet, folded and standing seam metal, bitumen felt roofs, or clay and concrete tile fixed with adjustable roof hooks. Each layout is completed with rail profiles, clamps and roof accessories in EN AW-6005T6 aluminium and A2 stainless steel, sized by a static calculation. Guide
Related pitched roof categories
- Shingle roofs
- Trapezoidal roofs
- Folded sheet metal
- Bitumen felt roofs
- Accessories for roofs
- Rail profiles and clamps
Pitched roofs: the covering decides the fixing
On a pitched roof the roof itself provides the tilt, so the mounting system has only one job: to get the array's load into the load-bearing timber without letting water in. That makes the roof covering the first thing to identify, because it dictates the fixing. Clay and concrete tile take an adjustable roof hook, slate and asphalt shingle take a hanger bolt or a flashed mounting plate, trapezoidal sheet takes a short rail or bridge bolted through the crown with a sealing washer, and standing seam takes a non-penetrating seam clamp.
The second thing to establish is the substructure. A hook, bolt or bridge must land in a rafter or purlin, never in a tiling batten or in sheeting alone. That single rule sets out the whole layout, because rafter spacing, usually somewhere between 0.6 and 1.0 m in European timber roofs, fixes where the hooks can go and therefore the rail span. Everything else, the rails, the mid and end clamps and the flashings and seals, is chosen after those two facts are known. The same rails, splices and clamps recur across the whole mounting systems range and across every family of solar structures, so the real decision is the fixing method, not the brand of rail.
FROM THE FIELD
"The failures I get called out to are almost never rail failures. They are hooks screwed into a 40 mm tiling batten because the fitter could not find the rafter and did not want to lift another row of tiles. A batten will hold the array on a still day and pull out in the first serious gale. Find the rafter, mark it from inside the loft if you have to, and screw into solid timber with the full length of the coach screw."
Ladislav Proc · Mounting systems specialist, ONSA Plus
How to choose a pitched roof mounting system
A pitched roof kit is specified from the building down, not from the module up. What the roof is covered with, what is under the covering and how far apart the rafters sit will narrow the choice to a single fixing family before anyone opens a price list.
Work through it in this order: identify the covering, then pick the fixing that belongs to it, then confirm the rafter positions and spacing, then run the static calculation that sets hook spacing and rail span, then choose rail direction, clamps and expansion joints, and finally settle watertightness and lightning protection separation.
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Step 1: identify the covering and its fixing
Get this wrong and nothing downstream works. Look at the profile, the material and the way the covering is held down, not at what the customer calls it.
- Clay or concrete tile: interlocking pantile, plain tile or Roman profile on battens. Fixed with an adjustable roof hook that passes between two courses of tile and screws into the rafter. Height and depth adjustment lets the hook clear the tile without loading it.
- Asphalt shingle or bitumen board: a continuous boarded deck under a flexible covering. Fixed with a hanger bolt through the deck into the rafter, or with a flashed mounting plate slid under a course of shingles. See shingle roofs.
- Trapezoidal sheet: profiled steel or aluminium sheet on purlins. Fixed with a short rail, bridge or L-foot bolted through the crown of the profile, never the valley, using a self-drilling fastener with a bonded EPDM sealing washer.
- Standing seam and folded metal: zinc, copper, aluminium or coated steel with an upstand seam. Fixed with a non-penetrating seam clamp that grips the fold and is tightened to a set torque. No hole in the roof at all.
Step 2: adjustable roof hooks or hanger bolts
These are the two penetrating fixings for timber roofs and they are not interchangeable.
- Adjustable roof hook: a stainless steel hook with a base plate that sits on the rafter or on a batten reinforcement and an arm that rises over the tile. Adjustment in two or three axes absorbs uneven tile courses and roof deformation. This is the correct fixing for tile because the load bypasses the covering entirely.
- Hanger bolt: a double-threaded stud, wood thread one end and metric thread the other, driven into the rafter and sealed against the deck with an EPDM washer or a flashing. Fast and low profile, but it depends entirely on the seal and on the thread engagement in solid timber.
- Thread engagement: the wood thread needs full seating in the rafter. A hanger bolt that has only entered boarding has almost no pull-out resistance, and uplift on a photovoltaic array is a tension load, not a shear load.
- Corrosion pairing: A2 or A4 stainless fixings with aluminium rails. Avoid direct contact between aluminium and copper or bare steel, and use an isolating pad where an aluminium foot lands on a metal roof of a different alloy.
Step 3: rafter spacing, hook spacing and rail span
Hook spacing is not a habit, it is an output of the static calculation for the site's wind and snow zone, the roof height, the pitch and the module weight. In practice it is quantised by the rafters: you can only fix where timber is.
- Find the rafters first: probe from the loft, measure a known rafter and step along the roof, or lift a tile and look. Do not read spacing off an old drawing.
- Typical spacing in European timber roofs runs from about 0.6 to 1.0 m. Wider spacing means fewer hooks per row, which means a bigger rail span and a heavier rail profile, not a cheaper job.
- Edge and corner zones of the roof see much higher local uplift than the middle field. The calculation usually forces closer hook spacing in the first bay along the eaves, the verge and the ridge.
- Snow load pushes down the slope, so on steep roofs and in high snow zones the calculation may add a hook or a snow stop rather than a thicker rail.
Tip from practice
Never move a hook sideways to hit a rafter without redoing the span check. Shifting one fixing quietly turns a compliant 1.4 m span into a 1.9 m span, and that is where rails deflect under wet snow. If the rafter is not where the layout wants it, change the layout or add a batten reinforcement, and record the change in the static documentation.
Step 4: tile lifting, dressing and watertightness
Where a hook passes out of the roof, the tile above it has to accommodate the arm without being loaded by it. That is the point at which most tile roofs start to leak.
- Lift, do not lever: unhook the tile above the fixing point, work the hook in, then relay the tile. Cold clay and concrete tiles crack easily, so on frosty days warm working is not a luxury.
- Dress the tile, not the hook: if the tile rocks on the hook arm, grind a shallow relief into the underside of the tile so it sits flat again. Bending the hook to clear the tile removes the adjustment you paid for and puts a permanent bending moment into the fixing.
- Keep a clearance gap: the hook must not bear on the tile below it. Contact transfers array load into a single tile and breaks it, usually two winters later.
- Restore the water path: underlay and any sarking membrane that was cut must be resealed. On boarded roofs, every hanger bolt gets an EPDM washer or a flashing collar dressed into the covering.
- Metal roofs: on trapezoidal sheet, fasteners go through the crown with a bonded washer, torqued so the washer compresses without dishing. On standing seam, use a seam clamp and keep the roof unpierced.
Step 5: rail direction, clamping and thermal expansion
On tile roofs the hooks run up the slope with the rafters, so the rails normally run horizontally across them. On trapezoidal sheet the fixings follow the crowns, so short rails or bridges run across the profile and the modules can often be mounted with very few components.
- Rail direction: horizontal rails on hooks, cross rails on sheet crowns, and a second rail layer only where module orientation demands it. Every extra layer adds height, weight and cost.
- Clamping zone: module clamps must sit inside the zone the module manufacturer permits, given as a distance from the frame corner. Outside it the frame and the glass take bending they were not tested for and the module warranty is void.
- Mid and end clamps are matched to the module frame height. Mixing frame heights in one row means mixing clamp heights, and that is a common cause of loose modules.
- Thermal expansion: aluminium moves roughly 23 µm per metre per kelvin. A 10 m continuous rail run swinging 50 K between a winter night and a summer afternoon moves about 11 mm. Use the manufacturer's expansion splice at the stated interval instead of a rigid joint, or the rail will bow and drag on the hooks.
- Earthing and bonding: anodised rail is not a reliable conductor through its clamped joints. Where bonding is required, use the toothed washers or bonding jumpers the system supplies.
Step 6: lightning protection separation distance
If the building has an external lightning protection system, the array is a large conductive object sitting inside its protected volume. The default approach is to keep the whole mounting structure isolated, at a separation distance calculated to EN 62305-3 from every air termination and down conductor. The separation distance depends on the class of protection, the number of parallel down conductors and the length of the conductor from the point of separation, so it is a calculated figure and not a fixed number. If that distance cannot be achieved, the alternative is to bond the structure into the lightning protection system deliberately, which then changes the surge protection requirements on the DC side. Neither choice is optional and neither should be made on site.
Fixings by roof covering
| Covering | Correct fixing | Watertightness point |
|---|---|---|
| Clay or concrete tile | Adjustable roof hook into the rafter | Tile relieved so it sits flat, clearance kept, underlay resealed |
| Asphalt shingle | Hanger bolt or flashed mounting plate | Flashing dressed under the shingle course above, EPDM seal at the stud |
| Bitumen felt on boarding | Hanger bolt with a sealed collar | Collar welded or bonded into the membrane, no exposed fastener head |
| Trapezoidal sheet | Bridge, L-foot or short rail through the crown | Bonded EPDM washer on every fastener, crown only, correct torque |
| Standing seam metal | Non-penetrating seam clamp | No penetration at all, clamp torque and alloy pairing checked |
Swipe the table to the left
Frequently asked questions about pitched roof mounting
How do I know which mounting system my roof needs?
Identify the covering first. Clay and concrete tile take adjustable roof hooks, asphalt shingle and bitumen felt take hanger bolts or flashed plates, trapezoidal sheet takes crown-mounted bridges, and standing seam takes non-penetrating clamps. Then confirm the rafters can carry the fixing.
Can a roof hook be fixed to the tiling batten?
No. Hooks and bolts must go into a rafter or purlin. A batten is typically 40 mm of softwood nailed across the rafters and has almost no pull-out resistance, so it will not hold against wind uplift, which loads the fixing in tension.
What is the difference between a roof hook and a hanger bolt?
A roof hook is an adjustable stainless bracket that reaches over a tile and bolts to the rafter, so the covering carries no load. A hanger bolt is a double-threaded stud driven straight into the rafter through a boarded deck, sealed with an EPDM washer or flashing.
How far apart should roof hooks be?
Hook spacing comes out of the static calculation for the site's wind and snow zone, building height, roof pitch and module weight. In practice it is limited by rafter spacing, commonly 0.6 to 1.0 m, and is tightened in the roof's edge and corner zones.
Do I have to cut or grind the roof tiles?
Often yes, on interlocking tile. Grind a shallow relief into the underside of the tile so it lies flat over the hook arm rather than rocking on it. Never bend the hook to clear the tile, and never let the hook bear on the tile below.
Will fixing solar panels make my roof leak?
Not if the water path is restored. On tile the covering is relaid over the hook and the underlay is resealed. On boarded and sheet roofs every penetration needs a bonded EPDM washer or a flashing collar. Standing seam clamps avoid penetration entirely.
Should the rails run horizontally or vertically?
On tile roofs, horizontally. Hooks follow the rafters up the slope, so rails cross them at right angles. On trapezoidal sheet the fixings follow the crowns and short cross rails or bridges are used. A second rail layer is only added when module orientation requires it.
Where exactly may the module clamps sit?
Inside the clamping zone the module manufacturer specifies in the installation manual, given as a distance from the frame corner. Clamping outside that zone puts untested bending into the frame and glass and voids the module warranty. Match clamp height to frame height.
Do aluminium rails need expansion joints?
Yes on long runs. Aluminium expands about 23 µm per metre per kelvin, so a 10 m run moving through 50 K shifts roughly 11 mm. Use the system's expansion splice at the interval the manufacturer states rather than a rigid joint, otherwise rails bow and drag on the fixings.
What about lightning protection on a roof with an air termination system?
Keep the array at the separation distance calculated to EN 62305-3 from all air terminations and down conductors. That distance depends on protection class, number of down conductors and conductor length, so it must be calculated. If it cannot be met, bond the structure in and adjust the DC surge protection.
The fixing that suits your roof depends on the covering, the rafter spacing and the condition of the structure, confirmed by a survey.
About ONSA Plus
Why installers across Europe order roof fixings from us
ONSA Plus is a European B2B distributor of photovoltaics, battery storage, heat pumps and EV charging stations. In our own EU warehouses we keep over 1,500 products from 25+ brands, including Huawei, Solis, SolaX and Dyness.
We are not just a trading company. We design and service energy systems ourselves, so we answer questions on roof fixings, watertightness and rail spans from engineering practice, not from a catalogue. You handle a warranty claim directly with us and you buy per job.